Bands and Plates in Shear

philliosmaximus

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anyone know if it's better to use the 2 hole B+P for a shear fixing to a wall ,
As I was always told that drilling holes less then 300mm apart can make the fixing weaker as the holes are to close together .
 
anyone know if it's better to use the 2 hole B+P for a shear fixing to a wall ,
As I was always told that drilling holes less then 300mm apart can make the fixing weaker as the holes are to close together .
Single b+p


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---------- Post added at 06:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:56 PM ----------

Failsafe
Resin fixing via hilti

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That's what I have always used matre ,
But I have seen the 2 hole backing plates for sale and wondered if maybe they worked as well
 
Single b+p
Has served me well
Less hassle
Easy to use

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My point is mighty that the the 2 holes band and plate holes are only 4 inches apart ,
And I was always taught that any holes taking a fixing had to be 300mm or a foot apart as the brick work could be weakened ,
 
The majority of my work
Is in the public domain
Have always used single b+p
Wether it be .excallibur bolts
Or resin fixings
I have used both
In many beam work
Applications
And they both produce
Great results

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Matre just out of interest I always use raw bolts with with a single hole B+P ,
I have tried ex caliber bolts but they always seem to loose for my liking ,
In my opinion resin is the best answer
 
My thought on tying into
Loose masonry

Is this
If it does not hold fold
Go back to management
Suguest
All works stops
Until an engineer aproves
An aproved design

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Phil - im the same as you mucker, just striking a job now where I hadda use 60+ b&p as ties I could only get the 2 hole ones but I only used one of the holes...on bw where it was old & I couldnt get them to bite I bought some chem resin from hilti & it worked a treat even on the pulltest
 
Trust me
When fixing
Ladder beams
Thst require
8 ties
Each
U trust ur experience

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Trust me
When fixing
Ladder beams
Thst require
8 ties
Each
U trust ur experience

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It's not always about experience Matre ,
I have a job on the way up that is designed and if if left to me would have been done in a whole different way ,

Builders design when I had checked by my designer was 7% over loaded
only my experience questioned it ( 35 years )

But the amended design ( not my designer ) stated using 150 ex caliber bolts into brickwork on the B+P with a minimum inbedment of 130mm ,

A backing plate is 25mm plus the band is 6mm

So how can you a have his 130 inbedment with a screw that is in my opinion never tight enough in the first place


I have questioned the design and we are on the 4 revision ,

It just seems that sometimes these designers need to have had a few years on tools like our selfs to know what works from experience as well as calculations in their perfect world

---------- Post added at 09:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:09 PM ----------

Phil - im the same as you mucker, just striking a job now where I hadda use 60+ b&p as ties I could only get the 2 hole ones but I only used one of the holes...on bw where it was old & I couldnt get them to bite I bought some chem resin from hilti & it worked a treat even on the pulltest

SP I will send you a copy of these drawings next week mate ,
Let me know what you think ;)
 
I have got a Independent, 8m long with a 6m return at each end, so it looks like the letter U in plan view, Independant is 8 boards wide, both returns are 6 boards wide, it's in a atrium, so they can clad the walls, all 14 lifts punched up of 780 ASP Beams, need a dance floor up the top too, so they can put the glass in the roof, one end is on dollys, other end is fixed into the lift shaft wall via B&P each beam has two, we can't have any standards because they want to do the screening, and I've got 12 beams, each B&P has 2 100mm Excaliburs, it scares the Sh1t out of me every time I look at it.
 
I keep asking if I can put dollys up till they do the screeding on the floor, but they won't have it, might just get the lads in early one day and put one up, blame it on the Scaff fairys, I'll certainly sleep better, I know all the calcs are done but I don't trust these designers lol
 
Excalibur bolts with the half moon washers take some shifting
ahah tel us about it 3 ft wrench and still takes some putting in at liver pool eh lol

Phil - im the same as you mucker, just striking a job now where I hadda use 60+ b&p as ties I could only get the 2 hole ones but I only used one of the holes...on bw where it was old & I couldnt get them to bite I bought some chem resin from hilti & it worked a treat even on the pulltest

take it you put oint he top hole and allowed the bottom to push in to the wall ?

I keep asking if I can put dollys up till they do the screeding on the floor, but they won't have it, might just get the lads in early one day and put one up, blame it on the Scaff fairys, I'll certainly sleep better, I know all the calcs are done but I don't trust these designers lol


any 1 know who is responsable if the any thing was to fail ona design job if the job it 100% to the design scaffolder or design engineers?
 
Morning Phil,
I have a preference for the single hole B&P, don't like to see the bolts so close together.
With the bols so close your pull out cones tend to overlap thus giving a reduced surface area.
That said with the right bolts the tie is still stronger but the sub structure nay not be.

I have looked for new B&P but I think they all come with the two holes as standard now?

I have used nothing but "Excalibur" or Hilti HUS" type bolts for the last 30 years and when correctly installed they are a much better anchor solution.
If they are loose you may be using the wrong size drill bit or a blunt bit. It could be that the drill is being waggled around to make the insertion easier??
hope this is of help
Alan
 
All ways thought the hole was there to stop cracks ,if overloaded or built up of ice in winter
 
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